A River of Complexity (SMWS 138.19) – Tasting Notes & Review

At just 4 years old, this Taiwanese marvel packs more twists and turns than a mountain river. Smoky, sweet, and a tad tropical, “A River of Complexity” invites you to wade into its depths and explore. Dare to take a sip? Prepare to get lost (in the best way) in a dram that overflows with surprises in every swirl.

Tasting Card Summary

• Distillery: Nantou Distillery (Taiwan)
• Age: 4 years (distilled 23 March 2018)
• ABV: 57.1% (Cask Strength)
• Cask Type: 1st Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel
• Region: Taiwan
• Outturn: 210 bottles

Tasting Notes

Nose: Bright and surprisingly fresh – imagine fresh peppermint leaves and cut grass by a riverbank, with a whisper of ocean breeze in the distance. Hints of smoke intertwine with a sweet, tangy balsamic note, as if a touch of vinegar from a seaside BBQ wafted over. With a drop of water, a candy-like citrus zest emerges (think lemon bonbons) and a coastal character blooms – evoking lobster pots drying in the sun and briny sea air.

Palate: Bold and evolving. A surge of peat smoke greets the tongue, growing more intense with each sip. As it settles, sweet and rich flavors unfurl – toffee-dipped apples, liquorice, and dark treacle coat the palate, balanced by charred oak bitterness. Hints of herbal and tropical nuances peek through (roasted herbs, elderflower, and even grilled mango). With a few drops of water, the mouthfeel turns creamy and slightly chalky, while zesty lemon and a green salty note (reminiscent of sea purslane) surface alongside a subtle medicinal hint.

Finish: Lingering and drying. A warm glow of peat embers fades slowly into an ashy afterglow, leaving a faint trail of sea salt and citrus on the lips. The smoke gently tapers off, but its memory lingers long, encouraging you to take another contemplative sip.

Food Pairings

Savory: To complement the smoky-sweet complexity, try bacon-wrapped scallops glazed with maple – the smoky bacon and briny scallop mirror the dram’s peat and coastal notes. Grilled lamb chops with rosemary and a balsamic reduction also work brilliantly, echoing the whisky’s herbal barbecue hints and subtle sweet tang.

Sweet: A slice of lemon meringue pie makes a delightful match – its citrus brightness and toasted sugar topping amplify the whisky’s lemony sweetness and gentle smoke. Dark chocolate salted caramels are another great choice: the rich cocoa, burnt sugar, and hint of sea salt enhance the whisky’s toffee, treacle, and subtle saline notes.

Story & Background

Picture yourself at the meeting of a river and the sea in subtropical Taiwan. The first sniff of this whisky carries you there: bright peppermint and wild green grasses by the water’s edge, mingling with a marine breeze. A wisp of campfire smoke from a distant fishing boat curls through the air, joined by a sweet tang of balsamic glaze. It’s an invigorating, multi-layered aroma that immediately lets you know this dram is something out of the ordinary.

Take a sip, and the current of complexity quickens. At first, waves of smoky peat crash over the palate – bold but not overwhelming. They soon recede to reveal a rich sweetness: imagine biting into a toffee-dipped apple by a beach bonfire, as dark molasses and liquorice weave over your tongue. Hints of something herbal and tropical flicker in the background: grilled mango, perhaps, and fresh herbs charring on hot coals. Each moment uncovers a new layer – a pinch of spice here, a touch of oak char there – making this a dram you’ll want to sit with and explore.

Now add a few drops of water and watch the whisky transform. Suddenly, a burst of candied citrus illuminates the scene – lemon sweets stealing the spotlight amid the smoke. The setting shifts from dusk to dawn: you might picture lobster traps and seaweed drying under a rising sun, the air tinged with salt spray and a faint medicinal tang of old boat wood. The palate becomes softer and creamier, revealing clean notes of lemon zest and coastal herbs. The finish stays long and warming, leaving ashy embers and a pinch of sea salt on your tongue, like the last glow of a beach fire as the morning tide comes in.

It’s hard to believe such complexity comes from a whisky just four years old. Credit the unique upbringing: Nantou Distillery, tucked away in central Taiwan, has been crafting single malts only since 2008, yet benefits from a **hot climate** that accelerates maturation. (Whisky ages roughly 2-3 times faster in Taiwan than in Scotland!) Owned by the state-run TTL company, Nantou releases its malts under the name “Omar” – Gaelic for “amber” – as a nod to Scotch traditions. The warm, humid air means an angel’s share of ~5-8% per year, concentrating the flavors and imparting depth beyond the whisky’s years.

The **cask and ingredients** also play a huge role. This bottling, SMWS 138.19, spent its life in a first-fill ex-bourbon barrel – a fresh oak cask that imparted creamy vanilla and toffee sweetness to the spirit. And unlike most Taiwanese whiskies, this one was made with peated malt. Lacking local peat bogs, Nantou imports peated barley from Scotland, layering a distinctly smoky, earthy character into the whisky. The result? A true East-meets-West dram – tropical fruit and sweet oak from its Taiwanese home, woven with the peat smoke soul of a Scotch. Sip it blind and you might think it’s a young Islay on one sip and an exotic fruit-forward malt on the next. It’s a harmonious collision of worlds in one glass.

Finally, consider the rarity: just 210 bottles came from this single cask. *A River of Complexity* is as exclusive as it is exciting. Tasting it feels like an adventure story unfolding in your glass – and it’s bound to spark conversation. One moment you’re marveling at how a Taiwanese whisky can taste like a seaside campfire, the next you’re savoring its candied tropical notes. In the end, the name says it all: this dram will take you on a winding journey of flavor. Sip slowly and enjoy every bend in the river.

Conversation & Serving Tips

• Young Yet Mature: Only 4 years old, yet so complex – Taiwan’s climate ages whisky fast. (Around 5–8% of the cask evaporates each year in the subtropics, meaning this youngster tastes surprisingly grown-up.) A great nugget to impress your friends!
• Name & Heritage: Nantou’s single malts are branded “Omar,” which means “amber” in Gaelic – a tribute to Scotland from this Taiwanese distillery. It’s a fun bit of whisky trivia to share as you pour.
• Peat Surprise: Peated Taiwanese whisky is rare. The smoky flavor here comes from imported Scottish peated barley. Pour it for friends blind and ask them to guess the origin – they’ll likely say Islay, not Taiwan!
• Limited Outturn: Only 210 bottles exist of this whisky, making it a collectible conversation piece. Its quirky name and unexpected origin are guaranteed to spark discussion. Ask your guests what “A River of Complexity” makes them imagine, then reveal its Taiwanese roots.
• Water Experiment: Encourage a neat sip first, then add a few drops of water. Notice how new flavors emerge – a burst of citrus, fresh herb notes, and more sea-side smoothness once the peat settles. It’s a dram that rewards a bit of water, so share that experience with everyone enjoying it.